Diamond and Gemstone Common Shapes and Cuts

Emerald Cut:

Also known as the Step Cut, this rectangular shape usually has about 50 facets which run parallel to the edges of the gem. Because of it's streamlined facets, the Emerald Cut may not have as much brilliance as some gem cuts. However when cut well it will direct the reflections of light straight back into the crown (see below : the top faceted half of the gem), thereby dramatically enhancing the color and scintillation of the gemstone.

Marquise Cut:

A Marquise Cut is basically an oval with rounded sides and pointed ends, however when cut properly, a Marquise Cut gem can look larger than it actually is.  The standard number of facets for this cut is 57, and a Marquise Cut with the appropriate pavillion depth will create a stunning sparkle and brilliance.  Because of it's unique and elegant shape, this cut works particularly well as a solitaire, or with smaller gem accents.

Round Cut:

Also called Brilliant Round Cut, this is the most common cut and was specifically designed for use on diamonds. When well-cut and proportioned, the 57 to 58 facets of a Brilliant Round Cut diamond strongly enhance it's sparkle and brilliance.  This cut has maintained it's popularity in the industry because it works so well with nearly any gemstone as well as most settings.

Cushion Cut:

This antique style resembles a rectangle with rounded corners, a soft-square, and usually has about 64 facets. As with the Princess Cut, this cut enhances luster, and really seems to dance in the light. A popular variation of this is the Checkerboard Faceted Cushion Cut, although both are very similar in shape and the effect they produce, the Checkerboard Faceted Cushion Cut has no table (see below: the top flat part of the gem) and has facets on the entire top half of the gem.

 

Asscher Cut:

Heart Cut:

The Heart Cut enhances the sparkle and color of a diamond or gemstone, very much like the Pear Cut does. It generally has about 59 facets, and should have rounded lobes, as well as a distinct cleft. Most importantly, the Heart Cut must be well proportioned, to result in the best sparkle and brilliance possible.

 

Princess Cut:

The Princess Cut is a fairly recent addition to faceted gems, and has become very popular in solitaire rings. This square shape has 76 intricate facets and more depth than most cuts, which adds brilliance and sparkle, particularly to lighter colored diamonds and gems.

Pear Cut:

The Pear Cut is a teardrop shape, that combines the best characteristics of two very similar cuts.  Melding the brilliance of an Oval Cut with the play of light of a Marquise Cut, the Pear Cut uses an average of 71 well-proportioned facets to greatly enhance the color of a gem. This uniquely shaped gem works especially well in earrings and necklaces.

Radiant Cut:

Like the Asscher Cut, the Radiant Cut is a variation of the Emerald Cut, and has become fairly popular.  The Radiant Cut has more sparkle than the Emerald shape from which it was derived, because it has additional facets on the underside of the gem.

Oval Cut:

An Oval Cut gemstone generally has 69 facets and an elliptical shape when viewed from the top.  It can provide as much brilliance and fire to a gemstone as the Brilliant Round Cut, and works well with almost any setting and gemstone.

Trillion Cut:

Also known as Trilliant Cut, this triangular shape provides brilliant fire, despite it's relatively low number of facets.  Although most Trillion Cut gems have about 43 facets, the exact design and cut can vary greatly from one gem to another. 

Briolette Cut:

The Briolette Cut has been around for centuries, and the name is believed to have come from the French word for brilliant or sparkling, a very fitting name for this cut.  The Briolette Cut has about 84 facets all the way around and unlike most cuts, it lacks a table, crown, and pavillion (see below for definitions).  This mulit-faceted drop shape results in a very brilliant gemstone, and the more facets it has -- the more brilliant the gem.

Baguette Cut:

The Baguette Cut is a rectangular shape with step cuts parallel to the edges, and has about 20 facets.  This cut is most common in diamonds, although it works well for Tourmaline and other gems with similarly shaped rough crystals.

Oval & Round Cabochon:

The Oval Cabochon Cut is an oblong domed cut with a flat or slightly rounded bottom, likewise, the round cabochon is a rounded shape also with a domed top.  Rather than being cut, a Cabochon is shaped and polished, and because of this it's one of the oldest forms of finishing gemstones.  Because there are no facets, the Cabochon Cut is most often used for gemstones with limited transparency such as Turquoise or Jade, as well as irridescent gems such as Opals.

 

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Anatomy of Diamonds and Gemstones

Crown - The portion between the Table and the Girdle or the top half of the gem

Culet - The tiny facet at the very bottom point of the gem

Depth - The height from the top of the Table to the bottom of the Culet or the entire height of the gem

Diameter - The width of the gem at it's Girdle

Pavillion - The portion between the Cult and Girdle or the bottom half of the gem

Table - The flat facet at the very top of the gem

Girdle - Where the Crown and Pavillion meet; The widest part of the gem

 

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 Popular Settings for Diamonds and Gemstones

The setting style of a jewelry piece is one of it's most notable characteristics, and affects the entire look of an item. The setting is also a tremendously important factor when considering quality and craftsmanship.  Although rings, particularly engagement rings, usually have the largest variety of settings, there are many different styles and mountings that are used for earrings, necklaces, and bracelets as well. 

 

 

Pavé Set or Micro-Pavé has recently gained immense popularity in the jewelry industry.  Pavé settings use a surface area with small dips or grooves, in which the gems are secured using drops of precious metal, or barely-visible prongs to hold the gemstones in place.  This creates the illusion of the surface being paved with gems and also appears to have a larger carat weight. This setting works well with nearly any item and gemstone, yet it also requires more labor and may therefore be slightly more expensive.

 

Channel Set items feature a single row of gemstones held in place by two outer precious metal walls. This style is often seen in wedding bands and tennis bracelets, and particularly in diamond jewelery as well.  Channel set gems are generally set very closely together without any precious metals separating the gems. This creates the illusion that the gems are floating in the setting, and also adds brilliance.

 

Another common setting, mostly used in rings and bracelets is the Bar Setting, sometimes referred to as the Channel End Setting because of it's similarity to the Channel setting. In the Bar setting, gems are held in place by short strips of precious metal placed between each stone.  This style allows light to enter through the sides, maximizing sparkle and brilliance.  Although this setting may look good with many different gemstones, it's best for gems with a hardness of 9 or more, such as Diamonds, Sapphires, or Rubies.

 

A fairly recent addition to jewelry settings is the Tension setting, mostly used with Platinum rings.  This style uses "springing," a natural characteristic of precious metals, to hold the gem in place.  Two small notches are cut in the end of the ring shank, and the gem is placed between them, this makes it appear as though the gemstone is floating.  Because of the pressure that the Tension setting may place on the gem, this is another style that should only be used for gemstones with a hardness of 9 or more on the Moh's Scale.

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